{"id":361,"date":"2015-06-07T05:59:32","date_gmt":"2015-06-07T05:59:32","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.jgrainger.com\/blog\/?p=361"},"modified":"2015-06-10T00:21:53","modified_gmt":"2015-06-10T00:21:53","slug":"turkey-straddling-the-ages","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.jgrainger.com\/blog\/turkey-straddling-the-ages\/","title":{"rendered":"Turkey: Straddling the ages \u2014 a travel special"},"content":{"rendered":"

Travel special: a whistlestop tour of Ankara and Istanbul, Turkey<\/h4>\n
\"A<\/a>

A city view of Istanbul, taken from the top of the Galata Tower.<\/p><\/div>\n

Despite living in Europe for years, where cheap flights across the continent are two a penny, as my plane landed in Istanbul<\/strong>, I wondered to myself why I had never visited Turkey.<\/p>\n

Straddling two continents and thousands of years of history, of empires and legends, with its reputation for bustle and bazaars, incredible food, strong coffee and sweet tea, romantic cruises on the Bosphorus and more, it seemed somewhat ridiculous that I\u2019d never even got close to visiting the famous city. So when the chance arose to visit the historic, cultural capital (Istanbul) and the country\u2019s actual capital, Ankara, I jumped at the chance.<\/p>\n

Now it\u2019s Istanbul, not Constantinople…<\/h4>\n
\"Interior<\/a>

Interior detail, the roof at the famous Hagia Sophia, or Aya Sofya museum, in Istanbul.<\/p><\/div>\n

Recommending which sights to visit in Istanbul is hard. It would take repeated visits to truly take in all the city has to offer, and with a population estimated at close to 15 million, there\u2019s plenty around. But there are a few \u201cgreatest hits\u201d which are a must for first-time visitors. If you want to discover echoes of Byzantium or Constantinople, these sites are essential.<\/p>\n

We\u2019ll start at the famous Hagia Sophia<\/strong> or Aya Sofya, which in its own way, tells the story of the city.<\/p>\n

This beautiful, important historical site has had religious buildings on its turf since 360 AD, but the current structure was built by the Byzantine emperor in 537. Consecrated as a Greek Orthodox basilica, it was the seat of the Patriarchate of Constantinople until 1453 (excusing a few years as a Roman Catholic Church in the 1200s). After Constantinople was seized by the Ottomans however, the building was subjected to great pillaging and later being converted into a mosque.It remained that way for nearly 500 years, until it was secularized and opened as a museum in 1935. The history there is astounding and many famous mosaics remain in varying states of decay. Allow yourself a few hours to drink it in.<\/p>\n

\"Blue<\/a>

Blue Mosque, Istanbul.<\/p><\/div>\n

In recent years, Turkey\u2019s reputation as a secular, Westernized state has been questioned by some who feel the country has become more Islamic under the rule of the the Justice and Development Party (AK Party), led by President Recep Tayyip Erdogan. Critics cry authoritarianism and point to the secular state envisioned by the republic\u2019s founder, while supporters point to the AK Party\u2019s string of unbroken electoral victories and observe such a drift is natural as an estimated 98 percent of Turkey\u2019s 74 million inhabitants are, in fact, Muslim. Whatever your take on the country\u2019s politics, mosques are an essential part of Istanbul and the calls to prayer that spread across the city from the minarets will soon seize your ear.<\/p>\n

One of the mosques that most worth a visit is the picturesque Blue Mosque<\/strong>, which at least one guidebook branded \u201cIstanbul\u2019s most photogenic building.\u201d Built in the 1600s,the huge complex is designed to perfection and \u2014 once you\u2019ve removed your shoes \u2014 you should take a wander inside to look at its magnificent interior.<\/p>\n

Mosques are an essential part of Istanbul and the calls to prayer that spread across the city from the minarets will soon seize your ear.<\/p><\/blockquote>\n

Closer to history<\/h4>\n
\"Documents<\/a>

Documents at the Ottoman Archives in Istanbul.<\/p><\/div>\n

Once the world\u2019s dominant power, the Ottoman Empire at its peak stretched from Algiers to deep into Iraq and those years of history produced acres and acres of artifacts and documents. Istanbul offers the chance to get a little closer to some of this history, namely via a trip to The Ottoman Archives of the Prime Minister\u2019s Office<\/strong>.<\/p>\n

Housed in a new US$150-million complex in the Kad\u00fdthane district, this huge collection of treats and treasures is open to researchers and foreigners, but appointments to gain an ID card to access the building must be made in advance. If you make that effort however, you will be rewarded \u2014 more than 4,000 years of history are housed here, with a total of 95 million files and documents currently being sorted through and digitized. Of course, speaking Turkish would help, but this site is a true trip into the past.<\/p>\n

The scope of the work that\u2019s going on here is truly mind-boggling and if you\u2019re lucky enough to find a friendly face who wants to talk about the work, you will be shocked at some of the documents being processed. A visit here will focus on the site\u2019s museum in all likelihood and the beauty and quality of some of the aged documents that have been discovered will take your breath away. Highly recommended.<\/p>\n

\"0706-coffee<\/a>

A traditional Turkish coffee.<\/p><\/div>\n

Another spot that should be on your list is the Galata Tower<\/strong>, a medieval stone tower in the charming Galata\/Karak\u00f6y quarter.<\/p>\n

While there\u2019s not much to the tower itself, the tip of the cone, straining above its surroundings, is well worth a visit. First, for its beautiful 360-degree panoramic views across the city, and second, for its excellent restaurant. With large windows looking out on the city, dining in the tower is a wonderful experience \u2014 and they serve a good, traditional Turkish coffee to help with your digestion.<\/p>\n

Next up \u2014 the Grand Bazaar<\/strong>. Hailed by many over the years as the bustling heart of the city, where foreigners haggle with friendly locals to secure a bargain, its reputation preceeds it… but here\u2019s my advice. Don\u2019t go. Unfortunately, it disappoints.<\/p>\n

Perhaps once upon a time, this beautiful, huge, epic building was filled with the handmade wares of traders from across the world, who mystified locals and foreigners alike with their inspiring products and sales pitches. Sadly, today, it is a tourist trap, where the deeper you go into the labyrinth complex, the more expensive things become.<\/p>\n

My advice? If you go, purchase things closer to the entrances, they will be around 40 percent cheaper than the prices set deeper inside (although no haggling on the edges, prices are fixed).<\/p>\n

Perhaps once upon a time, this beautiful, huge, epic building was filled with the handmade wares of traders from across the world, who mystified locals and foreigners alike with their inspiring products and sales pitches. Sadly, today, it is a tourist trap.<\/p><\/blockquote>\n

What should be a beautiful mix of chaos and colour is unfortunately a little lacking in charm.<\/p>\n

Final tips for Istanbul? Take a lot of time to gorge yourself on Turkish cuisine (Iskender kebabs in particular, I’d say) and sweet treats and take in an Efes beer or raki<\/em> (Turkish aniseed spirit) on one of Taksim Square\u2019s colourful sideroads. And most of all, soak up the history and explore on foot and public transport \u2014 the traffic is insane.<\/p>\n

\"An\u00fdtkabir,<\/a>

An\u00fdtkabir, the mausoleum of Turkey’s founder, Mustafa Kemal Atat\u00fcrk, in Ankara. By James Grainger.<\/p><\/div>\n

A little soul<\/h4>\n

Ankara<\/strong>, Turkey\u2019s capital, is a city that, frankly, lacks a little soul. Located in Central Anatolia, with a population of roughly 4.5 million, it\u2019s the centre of government and therefore also a commercial and business centre. Situated on a hill, it has two key sites of great interest that are worth a visit \u2014 one of key importance to the modern republic, the other crucial to understanding the millennia of history that carved marks on this land.<\/p>\n

Imposing yet calm, the mausoleum and shadow of Turkey\u2019s founding father, Mustafa Kemal Atat\u00fcrk, looms large in the capital and the hill upon which it is based is encircled by flower shops. Here, before the colourful flourishes of bouquets and petals, Turks stop to buy flowers, to lay later at the resting place of the Republic\u2019s father. Like practically every 21st-century citizen too, they also take a shedload of selfies \u2014 at the entrance, in front of the mausoleum and standing before the legendary figure\u2019s crypt, the list is endless. It\u2019s a tourist site that draws huge numbers oTurks, not just foreigners, and (if you can stand the crowds) would be best visited on November 10, the anniversary of Atat\u00fcrk\u2019s death.<\/p>\n

The founder of modern Turkey hangs heavy over the city. Ankara\u2019s standing today as the capital of the country is a direct consequence of the late president\u2019s decision to base the independence movement here and his desire to create \u201cdirect government by the Assembly.\u201d<\/p>\n

The site of An\u00fdtkabir<\/strong> itself is imposing, yet calm. Atop a hill, and encircled by Peace Park, the famous building housing the tomb itself (known as the \u201cHall of Honour\u201d) is flanked by a vast ceremonial courtyard, which has held hundreds of thousands of Turks on days of national importance. The approach to the monument and the courtyard is a long walkway, lined on both sides by rows of lions. Before entering the Hall of Honour, ensure you stop to visit the towers, statues and museums, which collect artifacts of Atat\u00fcrk\u2019s and tell the story of his importance and the site\u2019s creation. Once you\u2019ve marvelled at the great condition of the buildings and sculptures (the site was completed back in 1953), approach the main building with the rest of the locals.<\/p>\n

The founder of modern Turkey hangs heavy over the city. Ankara\u2019s standing today as the capital of the country is a direct consequence of the late president\u2019s decision to base the independence movement here and his desire to create \u201cdirect government by the Assembly.\u201d<\/p><\/blockquote>\n

As for the tomb itself. Exhibitions on topics and themes of Atat\u00fcrk\u2019s rule circle the mausoleum itself, which is inaccessible. Visitors are left to stare at a screen at the guarded entrance to the tomb, with cameras flicking back and forth, streaming images back to the onlookers. But in fact, it\u2019s within the smaller exhibitions stands that one can understand more about Turkey\u2019s first president and his influence on the modern nation today. Some of the notices can be a little propagandist and one-sided, but there\u2019s some interesting titbits waiting to be discovered.<\/p>\n

I was amazed to learn for example that it was Atat\u00fcrk who introduced surnames to the people. On June 21, 1934, six years after the country\u2019s alphabet reform, a law was passed requiring that every citizen adopt and use a surname. While the young nation\u2019s Christian and Jewish citizens already used surnames, most Muslims generally did not use Western-style naming conventions. Literally meaning \u201cFather of the Turks,\u201d Mustafa was given his surname by the Parliament, which promptly banned its use by any other citizen.<\/p>\n

\"The<\/a>

The incredibly well-stocked Museum of Anatolian Civilizations<\/p><\/div>\n

Elsewhere in Anatolia\u2019s Ankara (which despite its modern incarnation is a truly historical place dating back centuries) there is another spot that\u2019s well worth a visit \u2014 the incredibly well-stocked Museum of Anatolian Civilizations<\/strong>.<\/p>\n

Opened, remodelled and repaired in 1968, the site is a feast of artifacts, some dating back to approximately 8000 BC. Its pedigree is such that it was chosen as the first \u201cEuropean Museum of the Year\u201d back in 1997.<\/p>\n

If you\u2019re a history buff, its treasures are in truth too much to detail. They encompass Hittite, Greek, Hellenistic, Roman, Byzantine and Ottoman parts of history. Some of the items are truly astounding \u2014 for example, there are bronze, clay and stone tablets detailing and certifying old practices. One tablet I viewed, dating back to the 19th and 18th century BC, detailed the divorce of a \u201cnative Anatolian\u201d and \u201cAssyrian trader\u201d and established \u201cthat men and women had equal rights to divorce and remarry, and choose his\/her spouse.\u201d<\/p>\n

As well as King Midas\u2019 skull, there are Roman sculptures and works of art, ancient cauldrons, Ottoman treasures and imposing stone carvings. There are so many items to marvel at in fact that if you pay attention, you can sit in the museum\u2019s gardens and suddenly realize you\u2019re seated next to a Roman column dating back two millennia. Well worth a visit.<\/p>\n

Finally, should you have a couple more hours in Ankara, take a trip to the CER Modern<\/strong>. Located in what used to be an old train depot, this new gallery has a nice caf\u00e9 with a terrace and collates modern artworks from artists across Europe and Asia.<\/p>\n

Echoes of empire<\/h4>\n

What becomes apparent, even after a whistlestop tour of Turkey\u2019s two most prominent cities, is the sheer amount of history and people that have passed over the soil of one of the world\u2019s most strategically-placed countries.<\/p>\n

Turkey is as relevant to global, geopolitical issues as ever before \u2014 it not only shares a border with Europe, it faces Syria, Iran and Iraq too \u2014 as it was when part of the Roman, Byzantine or Ottoman empires.<\/p>\n

Modern-day Turkey may face challenges on its frontiers, but visiting its cities, wandering the streets and absorbing its history will help you realize that our years now are just a couple of brushstrokes on a wider canvas encapsulating thousands and thousands of years.<\/p>\n

Editor\u2019s note: the author visited Turkey with seven other journalists, as part of an outreach programme to Argentine journalists, paid for by the Turkish government.<\/em><\/p>\n

@URLgoeshere<\/p>\n

Originally published in the Buenos Aires Herald<\/span><\/a><\/span>, on Sunday, June 7, 2015,
\nin the On Sunday<\/em> supplement’s “Travel” section.<\/strong><\/p>\n

Link: http:\/\/www.buenosairesherald.com\/article\/190937\/straddling-the-ages<\/a>.<\/strong><\/p>\n

All photos copyright of James Grainger.<\/strong><\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

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